On the southern bank of Xianquanhe River northwest of Toding Town, Zhaborang District of Zhada County, there stands an isolated ancient castle sprawling along the mountain slope like an old man.

The ruins are today complete with 879 dwelling caves, 445 houses, 58 pillboxes, 28 dagobas and a road leading downward for people to fetch water. It is none other than a Guge Kingdom castle extant from the mid-9th century. It housed some 100,000 people during its heyday. Though the kingdom disappeared all of a sudden in the long river of history, a part of it survived through the past few centuries.

　　　　　　　　
Ruins of Guge Kingdom. LI LUYANG

Walking up the mountain from its foot, we passed the Red Temple, White Temple, Tara Hall and Samsara Hall, where murals still shine brightly and some of them are still coated with gold. They depict the lineage of the Tsampo (kings) of the ancient kingdom, and stories about how Adixa was invited to lecture on Buddhism in Ngari in 1038. All these show how Buddhism was favored during that period.

Halfway up the mountain are two connected tunnels leading up to the summit. The tunnel in the cliff to the north still houses gravel gathered during the Guge Kingdom. After that is a large courtyard measuring 160 square meters. It was where Guge king enjoyed music and dancing. Further north is a high terrace where an empty hall is located. It is where the king discussed state affairs.

On the top of the mountain is a small door with stone steps leading into the depth of the mountain. It is so narrow that only one person can pass. Dozens of meters downward is a cave complete with dozens of small and large rooms, with some in the forefront boasting ventilation holes. It was said the Guge king stayed there during the cold winter.

In the dozen caves around the palace temples the locals found shields, helmets, battle knives and swords.

In a cave 10 minutes walk from the ruins, visitors found hundreds of mummies long time ago. If they were killed by Ladakh invaders, how about the rest of the 100,000 Guge residents Where were they

Form: China' Tibet Magazine